Day 13 of Tour 3

Broadford to Acharacle

Part 1

The first Armadale to Mallaig ferry this Sunday was as late as 10:20 am so a leisurely start was possible, and some of the cycle path on the old road made a pleasant change from the main road and its traffic.

Lightweight quality kit from reliable brands at good discounts is available for a month on the road out of Mallaig towards Fort William. A couple of items that will be worn regularly were at prices that could not be refused.

One of the staff showed me his folding bike equipped with an electric motor that even purchased new seemed remarkable value. My legs are working too well at present to resort to motorised assistance so his offer of a trial ride was declined.

Keiran, a barman new to me at the Lochailort Inn, does not have a Scottish accent and revealed that he spent his teenage years and more in Grays in Essex, where this travelogue’s most regular followers live.

At my first visit to Glenuig Community Shop, I was served by a lady from Crumpsall (North Manchester) who knew where ICI pharmaceuticals (where Dad worked) started off before moving to Wilmslow.

The world seems smaller when you talk to people that you don’t know.

Part 2

The early evening sunlight made for an idyllic last leg to Acharacle. Substantial sourdough bread made from a mixture of white and wholemeal flour was purchased at the usual stop at the honesty shed.

Not knowing if the Loch Shiel Hotel would serve food on a Sunday evening, an enquiry at the nearby East to West Cafe allayed concerns of hunger as they would be open until 8 pm. However, there was plenty of time to have delicious vegetarian scotch broth then scampi cooked to perfection at the hotel before the kitchen was to close at 8:30 pm and the bar at around 10 or 11 pm depending on demand.

The day’s log is being completed while sipping a Guinness and looking out on the greenery of the large hotel grounds to hills and blue sky beyond. There are plenty of eaters and drinkers and a pleasant buzz of conversation, often with laughter and happy-sounding customers. Scottish dance music in the background for a while makes a pleasant change but is becoming incredibly repetitive.

This stop for the night at Acharacle will allow for a relaxed day tomorrow with some exploration of historic sites and then a visit at Kilchoan. Today’s distance covered was about 55 miles, with above-average ascent.