Kinloid to Elgol

During the night there were disturbances at times from rain hitting the tent and from bits of the tent flapping in the wind. However, it remained mild and the light rain showers forecast confidently for around 6 am were indeed light.

There was very little traffic on the Mallaig road and the first ferry departing 7:40 had a smooth crossing to Armadale on Skye.

Armadale Stores ( which includes the Post Office) had a good range of healthy foods on offer with green ways of buying them with your own containers catered for. It provides the coffee brand from Inverness that I had saught last year in that city.

An Crùbh, with its address including the three Skye regions Duisdale Beag, Isle Ornsay and Sleat, is a useful halfway stop to Broadford. The shop provided another opportunity to buy healthy food, with a good selection available. There is a useful outside tap with drinking water. The free toilet is located in a room that also has a shower (available at £5 for those not paying for overnight stays for their camper vans) so if you need to relieve yourself when the cafe is shut, enter the door showing the shower logo.

Cousin Fiona was in good form and, as usual, topics of conversation were wide ranging and enjoyable. Clothes not needed for a day in Elgol were left with her in order to make the four tough hill ascents more manageable. At her shop, Keri was also in good form and told me about another recommended eatery in Broadford, which will be tried soon.

In recent years trips to Elgol have been (wisely) on relatively fresh legs and without the weight of camping gear. This time there was also a struggle against a strong wind before the main climbs. Three stops were used to eat and rest, and a fourth to use the public convenience in the Bla Bheinn carpark. These rests enabled climbs without stops except those to make necessary use of passing places.

Camping on the natural grass flat by the river above Elgol as in days of old is a joy, and well worth the struggle to erect the tent in strong wind. Posting this day’s account requires better communications. (Telephones were very different at the time of my last night here. It also occurred to me that this will be my first time without any traces of alcohol in the system!) Meetings with relations tomorrow are eagerly anticipated.