Kilchoan to Kilmelford

Knowing that the first ferry to Tobermory did not leave until 8 am (a time that usually finds me at least 20 miles from the latest campsite), I must have packed up too leisurely and arrived at the jetty in time to see the wake of the departing boat. This gave me time to have a most interesting chat with a recently retired Frenchman. I was so pleased that he had allocated a whole week to Skye before leaving by ferry from Uig. He was learning English, but it was difficult to speak slowly to him when his speech was so precise. He had even pronounced Mallaig like a local! I hope my contacts can supply me soon with a choice of pubs in which to listen to live music. (Some brilliant musicians show less talent in responding promptly to queries than to mastering an instrument new to them!)

My situation made me feel that a visit to the owners of the memorable pop-up cafe was meant to be. They had insisted upon my attendance at a birthday party for the whole village in a barn (which had kept me entertained for hours after they left!).

I was very lucky to catch Johnny as he was leaving his house (coincidentally with a French guest) to learn that the pop-up cafe is closed this year but that a visit in a few weeks time should find them in Kilchoan. Johnnie was to take his guest to Tobermory and suggested that we might bump into each other there. Tobermory was very busy and I had thought that our chance meeting later in the morning had been unlikely.

It was disappointing to see that the baker’s shop was closed on a Saturday but the Tobermory Stores stocked a good selection of healthy food as usual.

My steep climb out of Tobermory felt almost impossible and it may be that the effects of yesterday’s big day were only coming through now. I had guessed that my first coffee could improve matters but never have I noticed such an improvement as after the lovely strong coffee half-way at The Coffee Pot at Salen. This is a popular stop with cyclists, even those with battery-aided bikes.

Regular followers who have read about Day 9 will know already about my activity at the ferry terminal and crossing to Oban.

The Oban Tesco is large and a regular shop for stocking up before continuing southward. The evening was wet, contributing to very light traffic on the main road to Kilmelford. The 16 wet miles including two testing climbs were completed without a stop and most were surprisingly enjoyable.

If I ever tow my trailer this far from Dumfries I am tempted to bring a strimmer to cut a rectangle of the long grass and a path to it from the hard ground! Perhaps a little chat with David might be better than this strong hint!

A yacht owner told me that the midge bites I felt in pitching my tent on the wet grass in the cold rain were not unexpected at this time of the year, so I was liberal with the effective Smidge for the first time this trip. In the past I have suffered nose bleeds during tough touring days but now they occur during low bending to fit the tent pegs.

Showers at the yacht haven are controllable to within a tiny range of temperature and are the best I have used on my travels. With (1) midges, (2) nosebleed and (3) cold, wet feet owing to dripping socks and trainers, this was not a good time for me to experience (4) the gurgling then failure of the hot and cold water supplies in the toilets! Taps in the utility room became equally useless.

They say that necessity is the mother of invention and, looking back, my coping adequately with the adversities numbered above is pleasing. See tomorrow’s log – Part 1 available already – for a changed morning routine at Kilmelford.