Kilmelford to Lochranza

Part 1

Waking up to calm wet weather necessitated immediately the application of Smidge. A spare light travel towel was moved between heel and toe of each dripping trainer and the same dry thick merino socks used in the sleeping bag were used for the cycling. Early on a Sunday morning the water situation at the "Yacht Haven" was not assured to be rectified (no hot water being available from taps on my first visit this year) so teeth were temporarily treated with Listerine before a speedy departure – much exceeding the leisurely pace that caused a missed ferry the previous day.

Leaving the campsite for the first time somewhat angry, a condition through my life that seemed to boost performance, the two difficult ascents on the route to Kilmelford carrying a soaking tent and heavy bag of clothes wet with yesterday’s downpours were achieved confidently.

The tiny gent’s toilet at Kilmartin was my first stop and served its purpose admirably. Both a working light and fully working water supply in public toilets is by no means assured and it was pleasurable to see the antiquated high cistern with its chain to pull working so much better than many modern equivalents.

Early Sunday wet morning traffic on the main road towards Cambeltown was wonderfully light (reminding me of Dumfries and Galloway) so the Crinan Canal was given a miss for a change. The road is scenic and my first food stop was on the classiest lay-by remembered from several years ago. Its information board is interesting but marked by blotches and in need of replacement. The continued calm weather necessitated eating while walking at a pace that the midges cannot cope with.

Years ago my meal at the Grey Gull Hotel at Ardrishaig was memorable for being perfectly suited to my palate. It has been my intention to return when passing at a convenient time. The staff are personable and accommodating so during my time waiting for lunch starting at 12 am they have left me writing undisturbed except for provision of tasty coffee. My battery pack should be fully charged and my clothes much drier.

Part 2

My meal of a generous helping of delicious leek and potato soup followed by a tasty Carrot Wellington was most enjoyable and also came with a huge two-course discount. Upon my spotting that my bill was in error, the reason was soon identified as a failure to apply the discount. The initial offer of making up the difference with canned or bottled drinks was met by a rapid flat refusal. As observing customers noted, the cash refund for a genuine mistake was swift. This mistake and initial offer of recompense took the edge off my otherwise glowing impression of the hotel, but it sparked a frank unforgettable chat with a couple out for a drink. They were coping inspirationally with adversity and efforts will be made to contact them and to continue conversations on a future tour.

These hours in the hotel allowed the rain to die away and the remaining cycling with a helpful wind felt good. A stop at the natural harbour of Tarbert is a must. Groceries bought at the supermarket can be eaten at picnic tables while looking out at the yachts in the bay, with both drinking water and public toilets at hand. Interesting, very informative posters show the rich and long history of civilisation here. (It is my intention to provide eventually links for further reading about the prehistory and rock formations of places passed in this tour. Posters provide web addresses and QR codes).

Not a single car passed me on the last five miles to the port of Claonaig, so not expecting an evening ferry, I was looking for wild camping spots. These abounded and, with fine facilities in support in the ferry terminal building (see footnote), wild camping in delightful surroundings would be an easy option. However, the possibility of climbing the challenging hill from Lochranza early am with the lightest traffic would permit weaving up the steepest portions to reduce the slope and the stress on ageing legs. A hot shower with water at my ideal temperature and chats with staff and campers are further advantages of the campsite over wild camping on the mainland.

The last ferry from Claonaig to Lochranza was delayed by 50 minutes because of the state of the tide and it returned to Lochranza with me on board as the only passenger! On arrival, as each segment of the landing rank descended to its lowest I was directed to push my bike forward a few feet!

Footnote

The new ferry building has a fairly sheltered waiting area with window areas without any glass, whereas the three unisex toilets have no windows or spaces and do have hot water and efficient hot air hand driers which looked capable of warming other body parts in an emergency. The reliability and availability of the ferries themselves is such a shame when the support facilities are first rate.