Kilchoan to Kinloid

Early this morning there were few clouds and the temperature of the outer tent fabric felt close to freezing. Visibility of close and distant mountains was superb and patches of ground in sunshine and shadow added to the impression of nearby and distant countryside. A start before 6 am meant that there was very little traffic and little use of passing places.

[Added paragraph and photo when back in Dumfries:
Look carefully to see the deer that had not crossed the road when the beauty of this early morning view of Camas nan Geall and beyond prompted me to stop.]

Being too early for coffee from a shop in Salen and on the wrong day for my old favourite Cafe Tioram in Acharacle, it was a relief to see an open door at the East to West Cafe in that village. There Kristie told me that both cafes served the same local coffee and as expected it did seem as enjoyable for me. A chat included the staff visits to big sporting events and to see tennis in particular. A remarkable coincidence for me was to catch Amy MacMaster, who had made Cafe Tioram a special place for me, as she left the East to West Cafe with purchases. She told me that she now ran the village hotel, so the return journey could involve a lunch stop to sample her cooking there.

A few miles on towards Lochailort, at my stop to use Kitty Rose Dyer’s honesty shed for buying rye bread made from seeds milled by the baker, a house visit to resolve the failed electronic payment included an assurance that Amy’s hotel meals are outstanding! (Also in the short chat were references to Basingstoke!)

At the Lochailort Inn I was asking for manager Barry and told that his second child (this time a girl – not yet named) was the reason for recent absences. The chef was on form and fellow customers were in chatty mood so the stop was most enjoyable.

Here at the campsite there are very few tents by 5pm although it is a lovely place to be. It is only about 6 miles from the Skye ferry port of Mallaig, so there should be the opportunity to meet one or more cousins tomorrow.

This fifth day has been the toughest physically, with a total distance of 51 miles entailing 4250 feet of ascent and a greatest altitude of 570 feet. As expected, the 1400 active calories is the current maximum for Tour 1

.