Broadford to Kilchoan

My departure earlier than necessary to catch the first Sunday ferry from Armadale to Mallaig meant that the traffic was lighter and that the first rest period was longer for this big day. It was good to have a chat with an Elgolian Calmac employee about his village.

Rather than the choice of a route following the main road all the way from Mallaig to Lochailort, the use of a slightly longer but more interesting and scenic minor coastal road past campsites and golf course triggered memories of previous holidays.

With Lochailort Inn and Tioram Cafe now “must stop” fixtures, coffee and food was divided between them. Barry at the Inn was in good form despite being short-staffed and was working long hours.

Thinking erroneously that Tioram Cafe shut at 3pm on a Sunday I game myself about 90 minutes for the hilly stint and my heart rate was nearly at maximum at the top of two long hills. The meal on a picnic table outside the cafe in glorious weather was predictably enjoyable. The decision was made to take it easy to Kilchoan and to wild camp if the body started to complain too much.

Feeling a need of a rest and more food near Ardslignish, I parked the bike by a gate. This attracted three nearby highland cows, one of which licked (perhaps for the salt?) a handle grip.

My stocks of food were dwindling and the sight of people eating and drinking outside the Kilchoan Hotel on this Sunday evening caused a change of plan. The fish and chips, together with a pint, dispelled any concern about replacing the day’s calories. Eating is so enjoyable when the body is crying out for food!

Late arrival at the campsite required paying directly from account to account by phone. For this £13 transaction Lloyds but not Nationwide allowed payment without a card reader! My favourite spot was available and a most satisfying day was completed.