Kinloid to Kilchoan

This account is being written up a day late (on Day 10) next to a radiator and device-charging point in the lobby of the booking office for the Craignure Ferry and looking out on the snow at the top of the Nevis range. The next and hopefully last location for writing the log will be the ferry to Oban. With children on board at the weekend, this could be a severe test of the concentration of the blogger!

The twisty 51 mile route for Day 9 with about 4000 feet of ascent left me less exhausted than usual, I think because of the overall helpful effect of the wind and also the quantity and quality of stops. These stops will form the bulk of this report.

The Lochailort Inn was an excellent coffee stop with meaningful chats to staff and fellow customers/travellers. My extended time in Inverness last year allowed me to offer suggestions on what to do there for three days.

My wild camping site a few miles further was unoccupied and with sunshine and blue sea and sky, several hours could have been spent exploring the near vicinity by watching the shadows change on the many hills and listening to and watching sea and land birds. Cuckoos are having a good year.

At my next stop, at Kitty Rose Dyer’s honesty shed, Kitty’s husband answered the door of the house behind. My assumption that his hands were white due to flour and not to plaster for building work was embarrassing!

Lunch at the Loch Shiel Hotel was a delight. Staff who had moved from Cafe Tioram with Amy recognised me and remembered my particular likes. In addition, the quantity and quality of the food makes this place a must stop for the future. A stroll round the estate was necessary to be ready for starting to cycle up the tough hills remaining.

New to me this year was the reopening of the cafe for the Lochaber Natural History Centre. Having sampled a roll and herb tea, I enquired about where the new owners had acquired their undoubted experience. The two locations that Aaron and Wendy supplied were Sutton Coldfield (where I have raced many times) and Tamworth (known to me from bike tours between Watford and Alderley Edge). The cafe is in a perfect situation for refuelling and relaxing in preparation for the long climb towards Kilchoan.

[Added when back in Dumfries:
The new owners are agreeable that “The Lochside Cafe” be retained as a convenient name for their cafe for the Lochaber Natural History Centre. How could my stop overlooking Camas nan Geall, not far away, be forgotten in the write-up? For the first time for me the commanding area with the explanatory posters was unoccupied and this was a chance to read what was bringing so many to visit the Bay of Strangers. Please take a look at the excellent summary and see if you can resist a good look at the site. See also the outward direction starting in the early morning with photo added late.]

Reaching the campsite, my greeting from the lady in charge was “Oh it’s yourself!” Her recall of forename plus surname to enter on the form, even after only a few days, was impressive.

A short chat with the other occupant of the tiny kitchen soon uncovered that we had much in common. He has lived many years in Wilmslow, where we were brought up, in order to work in Manchester. Pete’s house is in a minor road off Knutsford Road (where we lived at number 120). Being a member of Manchester Wheelers, he usually brings his bicycle. We both enjoy cycling on the quiet roads of Dumfries and Galloway.