Port Askaig to Lochranza via distilleries and gaelic centre

It is easy to make an early start when wild camping and visiting distilleries when closed offers advantages. It was a scenic cycle to the recommended Bunnahabhain distillery (see photo of large deckchair in its grounds) and then Ardnahoe on return to Keills.

Bowmore was my next target and a visit to the Islay Gaelic Centre on the approach to the town left a strong impression with a need to return. Thanks again to Sheena for showing me round. The home page includes an excellent photograph of the main part of the building under the Online Store. At the cafe the menu is written in both gaelic and English. The soup was tasty and ploughman’s lunch comprised roll, cheese, quiche, and chutney (with ham also for meat eaters).

There was much of interest about the culture and language on display. In particular, the immersive experience showing the effort put into maintaining the language was moving.

Islay Gaelic is taught, but common alternatives are also discussed; the language can vary over surprisingly short distances. Gaelic was dad’s first language, which was strongly discouraged at school. For me gaelic singing often hits the spot and just the sound of spoken gaelic is appealing. Moreover, many Scottish place names are either gaelic or derived from it. I started to learn some of the more common elements of place names and will pass on my knowledge here in time because of its high relevance to travel.

The two hour ferry back to the mainland passed very quickly, having lots in common with fellow cyclists Jo and Steve. Steve gave me advice on gear for winter cycling, which I have since used for a purchase of a quilted top at ArranActive and to encourage me to pack and use overshoes.

My mention of Elgol sparked vivid recollections of Steve’s cycle there a few years ago and the days wild camping with his neighbour Mark Bowden in order to combat Mark’s problem with addiction. Before the trip, Mark had published Ten Times As Bad: The Life Story of Mark Bowden, available for Kindle. Photos of Mark during a tour from Ade in Netherlands to Ulm in Germany and their campsite before a thorough tidy-up follow.

Jo and Steve live in Crewe, site of the station I have spent much time in over the years in trips north and south from Wilmslow or Alderley Edge.